I have a confession to make. Whilst the mention of Tante Claire did spark the vaguest firing of the synapses, Pierre Koffman’s name produced as many sparks as rubbing two wet sticks together on a rainy day in Wales. I have my foody twitter friends to thank for discovering that the former three Michelin starred chef was coming out of retirement to head up a pop-up restaurant during the London Restaurant Festival, as a link to the reservation contact details were put on Twitter before general public release. Even then I could only get a reservation at 6pm, so how anyone not pre-warned managed to get a table I don’t know.

The feeling of exclusivity that Selfridges was purposely fostering was even more enhanced by the fact that the entrance was via a rather difficult to locate lift by the Chanel counter. Passing the reservation check-in, we entered the lift, ascended to the roof and entered a very well disguised service corridor to enter one of the fanciest marquee type efforts I’ve seen. The decor within the restaurant itself was classic linen, with a touch of the eclectic; bowler hats & antlers hanging on the wall & ceiling. I liked it.

The 6pm booking actually turned out to be a blessing in disguise, being able to look out across the rooftops of the West End, whilst the evening  was still light, which wasn’t for long. We were then approached by a lady introducing herself as Claire, who asked us if we’d been to Le Tante Claire when it was open and then said “Yes, my husband, Pierre, is very excited about cooking here for the next few weeks”. I think this was a great touch and one which really makes you feel extra effort has been made to make you feel welcome.

On to the food, and after ordering our starters, Pressed Leek with Lobster & Truffle for Ms R and Fricassee of Wild Mushrooms & Snails with Bone Marrow for me, we were served a fantastic amuse bouche of Langoustine Bisque. The Bisque was light but intensely flavoured and was definitely michelin star quality. Ms R was less impressed with the pressed leek & lobster and whilst I enjoyed the snails, mushrooms and bone marrow, it didn’t bowl me over.

Having researched a bit beforehand, I really had no option to order what was Le Tante Claire’s signature dish of Stuffed Pig’s Trotter with Veal Sweetbreads and Morel’s, despite the  potential of causing Ms R to leave the restaurant in revulsion at the sight ‘pig foot’. Ms R, on the other hand, went for the more aesthetically pleasing Wild Sea Bass with Artichoke Barigoule. The pig’s trotter was rich and unctuous, perhaps a little too rich, and the Sea Bass was pleasant, but not a lot of wow factor.

Last up was the Pistachio Souffle and Toscano Chocolate Mousse with Orange Compote and Muscovado Ice Cream. I thought the souffle was excellent, although Ms R thought it a bit too eggy, but my chocolate mousse was decadence itself and was very, very good.

I don’t know who it was that had the idea of bringing Pierre Koffman out of retirement and having a rooftop restaurant at Selfridges, but it was a masterstroke and I applaud them. The setting was superb, the atmosphere buzzing and although I wasn’t wowed by the food, I still left feeling as though I’d had a really great evening, a good part due to the exceptional service. I’d hesitate to say it was good value for money, as £75 a head quickly escalated with wine, but I really do hope they keep the restaurant open, whoever continues operating the kitchen.