I tend to not try and read too many reviews of a restaurant I fancy going to, but considering a) this is a fairly new restaurant, b) the chef is a celebrity chef and c) it’s the celebrity chef’s first sole venture, avoiding reviews of Mark Hix’s new establishment is like trying not to learn an England result whilst wandering around Wembley after final whistle.

I therefore couldn’t help but be aware of the ‘crap service, great food’ lines most well known critics have been touting.

Harden’s review even complained about the absence of the chef himself, which I found a little bizarre, seeing as I’ve not once seen a celebrity chef in any of the establishments I’ve eaten in, that they own. Marina O’Loughlin from the Metro complained that the service was particularly poor because nobody knows what she looks like (which I always thought was the point) and even the critics who can’t be mistaken for anyone else, like Jay Rayner and AA Gill said the service was lacking.

All I can say is that they obviously weren’t as well known gastrophiles as Biggest Jim and the glamorous Miss P, considering that not only was Mark Hix in attendance, but the service was excellent. He didn’t come and personally greet us, as one might expect, but the restaurant was full and I guess he didn’t want to perpetuate the sentiment that celebrities get preferential treatment.

On entering the restaurant, both Miss P and I were struck with how similar the tiled walls and ‘old school’ knick knacks were with St John’s, a bare 3 minutes round the corner. However, whilst the menu at St John can be a little intimidating, the menu here was as comforting and traditional as British Cuisine can get.  Lobster, asparagus, duck eggs, steaks and chops were all there, although I decided to go with the deep fried sandeels to start, whilst Miss P went for 4 Maldon Rock Oysters, having been warned that the Colchesters’ were rather creamy i.e. strong, at present.

Not even having heard of sandeels before, I was half expecting a plate of elver type creatures, so was quite surprised to find that my sandeels looked remarkably like whiting. Whilst deep fried whiting can be pretty strong tasting, the sandeels were much more mellow in taste and lighter in texture, providing a very moreish starter.

The mains consisted of a large portion of two Salt Marsh Lamb chops on sea vegetables for Miss P and the Beef and Oyster Pie for myself, with sides of minted peas and Scallions & Green Tomatoes in cider batter. Having been a bit disappointed with cooked oysters in the past, I was a little wary of what to expect. What I hadn’t really expected was one of the best pies I’ve ever eaten; proper, crunchy pastry topping with succulent beef shank and the oysters adding a sea-salty taste which was a mouthwatering combination. The lamb chops went down as well, if not better, on the other side of the table, with little encouragement required for the remaining chop morsels to be finished off without the use of a knife & fork. A mention should also be made for the scallions & green tomatoes in crunchy batter, with the cider giving a slightly sweet element, which was interesting, different and a good match with the green tomatoes and scallions (spring onions).

Teetering on the edge of Mr Creosote territory, we still couldn’t resist the appealing description of the strawberry sundae, so shared the coulis, ice-cream, chantilly cream and strawberries in a knickerbocker glory style presentation, washed down with a glass of Sauternes, which was a fitting ending to an excellent meal.

I really can’t think of anything bad to say about my experience at Hix Oyster and Chop House. The food was superb, atmosphere lively, service excellent and pricing good value for money (starters around the £7 mark, mains from £12 and desserts from £4). I did see a few tables desperately trying to catch the attention of their waitress early on, so I wouldn’t say that the troubles with service have been entirely eradicated from the early reviews, but apart from a 5 minute wait when we sat down (I have to admit I’d thought I’d condemned us by ordering tap water straight off the bat), the service was not only with a smile, but also a wink on occasion, too. If you like British food, then  it’s a must go establishment. Bravo, Mr. Hix.