There seems to be a proliferation of chain restaurants in the Docklands area, which I only really noticed recently when I was asked to recommend a restaurant in the area. Gaucho Grill is at the higher end of these chains, but forms a part of one, nonetheless. My feelings on chain restaurants are a little mixed, but probably err on the negative side more than positive. If good, quality food is being cooked, then that’s always to be encouraged, but I think that that is more than counteracted by the loss of creativity in having the same restaurant replicated several times in multiple locations with the same menu. If the restaurant scene ended up the same as UK high streets have ended up, in a bland, identikit, manner, it would be a very bad thing indeed.

Anyway, the Canary Wharf branch of the Gaucho is located next to the river and does have very pleasant views both up the Thames to the City and down the Thames to Greenwich. The restaurant now spills out onto the pavement, although I’m not sure if this is just a summer phenomenon, but it’s a pleasant development, particularly when the sun is shining. The outside furniture is a little too outdoorsy, but with the English summer weather as it is

The menu reflects the Argentinian theme, with a mixture of Ceviche’s and empanada’s for starters and Steak/Grilled meat for mains. I ate a Ceviche here before, about 18 months ago, and was wowed by the combination of flavours, so I went for the same again, the Merluza. The Merluza (a cod like fish) was served with jalapeno, apple and ginger in a white soy sauce. Whether it was due to my palate becoming more sophisticated since the last time I ate it or the dish not being prepared as well as it had been before, I wasn’t wowed. It wasn’t bad at all, but the jalapeno overpowered the rest of the flavours and it lacked in acidity. My companions’ Ceviches were also good, but again failed to wow.

The steaks are offered in several cuts and sizes, which give a good range of options, from the 225g fillet to a whopping 400g rump. Sirloin and rib eye cuts are also available, with the other size a respectable 300g. Ms A and Mrs A-S both went for the Bife de Chorizo (sirloin), rare, whilst I went for the spatchcocked chicken, marinated in a lemon and lime chimichurri (a sort of South American pesto). One of the reasons that the sirloin had caught their eye, was the fact that it came ‘with a belt of tasty crackling’, although this turned out to be more a layer of chewy fat. I’m not sure if having it rare means the cook cannot get the crackling effect, but surely a bit of improvisation with a blow torch would do the trick? The steak was tender and both were served as requested, nice and bloody and even the smallest size was a good portion. My chicken managed the crispy skin without a problem, with the juicy white meat still retaining some flavours from the marinade.

The Ladies, as per usual, had left room for dessert and selected the Argentine pancakes with ice cream & dulce de leche and the Churros. We all thought the Churros were excellent (a tube of sweet pastry dusted in cinnamon sugar) and very much enjoyed dipping them in the chocolate sauce provided. Definitely the dish of the day.

Gaucho does serve some good food, but I don’t think it can really justify the prices, particularly the starters (most were around the £8 mark or above) and the wines (£18 a bottle minimum). The steaks aren’t badly priced, to be fair, but only if you go for the smaller options. The service was excellent and with the restaurant being packed on a Monday night, they can’t be doing too badly, although I can’t help the feeling that it’s an easy way for the suits of Canary Wharf to flex their macho muscles.