In it’s marketing blurb, Benares claims inspiration from the eponymous holy city on the banks of the Ganges. I have to admit that I would gladly rescind my agnosticism to worship at it’s altar, because it serves very, very good food. It fully deserves it’s single Michelin star and I wouldn’t be surprised if it gets an additional star next year, based on this visit. 

The decor does not differ radically from any other top, modern restaurant, being dominated by creams and dark browns, although the pools scattered with rose petals add character and atmosphere. 

We decided to go with the a la carte menu, although we had arrived in time (6.45pm booking) to qualify for the pre-theatre menu. The pre-theatre menu looked extremely good value, at £30 a head including three courses, a glass of wine and coffee, but I had already seen a dish on the a la carte I really wanted to try. Before ordering, we were presented with a pretty box of mixed mini poppadums, with four, freshly made chutneys (mango, pickled vegetable, tamarind and spicy tomato), which were a nice appetiser. Similarities between Benares and your typical local Indian stopped there, as when we enquired about having beer with our meal, the sommelier politely recommended that the wine went better! This wasn’t a problem as I’d already seen an Indian (!) Sauvignon blanc (Sula vineyard’s) I fancied which wasn’t going to break the bank. 

Both my partner and I wanted the crisp soft shell crab to start, but in order to get a taste of another dish, I chose the Tandoori Salmon to split as well. The crab came with spicy squid and was delectable. It had been deep fried in a lightly spiced batter and the crisp on the outside, soft on the inside texture with the light spicing was fantastic. The tandoori salmon had been lightly spiced with star anise and was also perfectly cooked and perfectly spiced.

I ordered the spiced rack of Kent lamb with tandoori broccoli for mains, along with a veg of okra cooked in pickling spices, pilau rice and mixed breads. My other half went for the grilled king prawns marinated In garlic & lemon, served with a tomato & basil salad. The lamb was very tender but a little too lightly spiced for my liking, although this was in sharp contrast to the broccoli, which had a real kick. The okra was tasty and the prawns large, meaty and reminiscent of the fresh giant prawns we’d had barbequed in Zanzibar. The nan breads were light and crisp and the rice fluffy and delicately spiced.

Whilst the mains weren’t quite up to the superlative starters, I experienced epiphany during dessert. I was in two minds with what to go for, once my partner had decided to go for the Banana crepes with cinnamon sauce, but was persuaded to try the chocolate, chilli baked yoghurt with watermelon syrup because it was so different. Wow is what happened after that. The yoghurt tasted good, but then after about 5 seconds, the chilli kicked in and then became hotter and hotter until it got immediately quenched by the creamy lassi it was served with. The melon syrup was more a sorbet which refreshed the palate ready for the next round. I was amazed at how the chilli did not come into effect for several seconds and then ramped up in heat until extinguished by the lassi. That dessert is one of the cleverest dishes and most interesting, delightful, experiences on the tastebuds I have ever had. For me, the banana crepes did not compare to the chilli yoghurt, but I was in a world of my own for several minutes, so wasn’t exactly fully concentrating on the other dessert!

I really enjoyed my experience at Benares and would have no hesitation about going back. Starters were between £10 and £15 each and the mains were £22 upwards and with the wines starting at £25 per bottle, it is not a cheap place to eat. If you can splash out, it is very much worth the experience.