The first time I visited Hakkasan, a few years ago, I was absolutely blown away by the funky decor, stunning bar staff and tasty food, not to mention the sheer swankiness of eating in a fashionable, high class establishment. Now being slightly longer in the tooth, I wasn’t quite blown away but was still impressed by the atmosphere and presentation of this fancy Chinese restaurant, created by Alan Yau (of Wagamama fame).

Hakkasan is tucked away in the quiet Hanway Place, located behind Tottenham Ct Road and Oxford St and you immediately get a feeling of exclusivity when your reservation is confirmed by the be-suited burly types at the door (well, as long as they deem you suitable and let you in, I suppose).  The short but quiet walk down the stairs to the bar and restaurant are in contrast to the hustle and bustle once you go through the doors (held open for you, of course) and enter. Dark wood and ornate gazebo type things adorn the interior, with attractive waiting staff buzzing around, serving the rich, privileged or those on expense accounts.

Part of Hakkasan’s allure are the cocktails, so myself and Miss R opted for a Chinese Mule and a Lychee Martini, respectively. I felt the Mule had a little too much of a ginger kick for my liking, although the Martini was light and refreshing.

Ordering the starters (although we were warned that the dishes aren’t served in any particular order) I went for the deep fried soft shell crab, whilst Miss R opted for the sesame prawn toast. Both were good, if unexceptional. The mains came in the form of Pi Pa Duck (a spicy variant on crispy duck and without the pancakes etc), Sha Cha Seafood Toban and Three-Style Mushrooms, served with Jasmine Rice. The duck had a lovely, crispy skin, surrounding the dark, unctuous meat, but I felt with the spices in a Chinese cook’s repertoire, it could have been tastier. The seafood (squid, scallops, fish & prawns) in the Toban was perfectly cooked, but again, lacked invention and taste.

Feeling quite full and not being tempted by the desserts, we also forewent the coffees and ploughed straight onto the liqueurs (a sambuca apiece), with a beer chaser. This was partly to numb the impact of the insane prices as well as attempting to use the digestif to diffuse an increased feeling of bloating, although I was quite tempted to experience what a £9 cup of tea tasted like.

When I eat in any restaurant, I give some thought as to whether the meal is good value or, if not, how exceptional it is (hopefully both). Other factors always play a part and can even spoil an excellent meal, but the food should always be the star of the show. The atmosphere in Hakkasan is fantastic but an excellent service was spoiled by the fact they attempted to double charge us on the tip, which I find unacceptable in any establishment. Unfortunately, the food is nowhere near value for money and neither is it exceptional. Hakkasan is more a place to be ‘seen’ or to impress Client’s with, and whilst it is fun to have a meal there, especially for the people watching aspect, overall I don’t think it’s worthy of it’s Michelin star.